Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Friday afternoon with its first collection without creative director Alessandro Michele.
A cast of all-male models walked on a beige carpet around a spherical stage for a live performance by Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog, actor Idris Elba, “Wednesday” star Percy Hines White, South Korea’s I performed for guests such as singer and actor Kai. A typical Gucci front row departure with faces like Harry Styles and Jared Leto.
Designed by Gucci’s in-house team, the collection itself was also a departure from Michele’s hype-driven maximalist aesthetic, with a range of items inspired by his predecessor designers, from Tom Ford to Frida Giannini.
This can be seen in the Crystal GG motif, a new lacquer rendition of the Maison’s coated Monogram canvas in the 1970s, which can be found on workwear coveralls, bags and shoes in various colours.
Other archival moments can be found in 1980s Gucci-inspired sportswear, and motorcycle garments pay homage to archival pieces from the early 2000s.
According to the show notes, Gucci said the collection focuses on “the archetype of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe” and is redefining it through “luxury amplification of craftsmanship” and a “subversive lens of improvisation.” said he was aiming for
Silhouettes are oversized, especially in tailored wear, to allow for “styling improvisation,” the brand said. This was also reflected in suits with removable elements, giving rise to sleeveless jackets and shorts.
The collection is a soft reinterpretation of the structure of the Jackie bag, featuring a faded pastel crocodile edition adorned with a piston lock originally created by Tom Ford for Gucci.
As for footwear, the collection features new soft quilted motorcycle boots in a variety of colours. Additionally, the aforementioned Crystal GG canvas can also be found on his classic 1970s round toe ankle. These styles appear alongside Heel His Slippers, Corduroy Horsebit Loafers, and updated Fluffy Princetown His Slippers.