Loewe’s minimalist Paris show explores Old Masters, boyhood

PARIS (AP) — Jonathan Anderson doesn’t seem to be doing anything wrong. Loewe’s Northern Irish designer’s imaginative, boundary-pushing designs are rated by front-row editors as one of the best, if not the best, to grace a Parisian runway today. often

And Saturday’s Fall Collection, with plaster shards littering the edges of the set, only confirms this. Sent to the stripped-down world of off-kilter dreams.

Here are some highlights from the Fall/Winter 2023-24 display.

Loewe’s sensitive genius

A cryptic painting of a schoolboy — half-naked in his underwear, with a tie around his neck, reclining in a classic pose — dominated the central section of the runway theater in a circle.

Then, with golden angel wings, oversized sunken medieval boots, silky historic tops unbuttoned at the back, and colors of parchment, velvet, copper and steel, the meaning of art is clearer. became.

Anderson delves into the world of the Old Masters and recreates the fragility of masterpiece oil paintings in a modern way.

The look was intentionally imperfect — shimmering loose gold shorts with a bare torso, a sort of codpiece-like pale leggings undergarment, and big leather boots with no pants. Perfection gave the collection emotional depth, evoking vulnerability and innocence, like pieces of plaster crumbling at the feet of guests.

Anderson infused 48’s look with surrealism, subdued by an unwavering minimalist aesthetic and clean color blocking.

A regal silk lavender top incorporated elements of draping, while long layered sleeves evoked the style of historic dresses.

piece of resistance? Two exaggerated coats of Elizabethan cork and cerulean, tucked at the hem like a parachute and worn over the naked body.

Hermes: “You took me to the leather trench”

Models walked through interlocking gray slate-stone buildings designed to mirror the stark floors inside the UNESCO headquarters.

It was a good choice, reflecting Hermès’ somewhat hard and practical direction this season at the United Nations Cultural Organization.

A sublime soft gray leather trench opens up — likely chosen for its matching color — with classic loose proportions, a casually tied belt, and a punk metallic clasp.

“You took me to the leather trenches,” was the comment uttered by one of the front-row editors, as the sumptuous garment seemed to sum up the entire collection.

Hermès has become synonymous with marketable, unpretentious and pure luxury.

Black leather trousers have a subtle twist with a small metal chain at the hip. The wide, masculine torso, rounded shoulders, and delicate tones of grey, white, cream, and beige went against designer Veronique Nichanian’s confidence.

She knows she just needs a little twist on the tried-and-true formula of the Maison she’s led since 1988.

Nishanian is the longest serving non-founding designer of Parisian fashion since the death of Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld in 2019.

She once again proved why.

kenzo party

A 1,000-seat music hall with a string quartet, an afterparty where drinks flow like they did in ancient Rome, and celebrity music performances that reverberate until Friday night.

This was Kenzo’s confident look. It shows that the new designer feels himself growing in the spotlight.

It has been one year since NIGO became the first Japanese designer to go down in history since Kenzo Takada, who passed away in 2020.

And for this fall collection, he’s honed his craft a little and stepped out of the shadow of the Maison’s founder.

The music scene was the centerpiece of the show, with styles centered around London’s underground subcultures of the 1960s and ’70s, including punk and mod. It was a kind of backflow of the West by the Japanese Prism. (The string quartet consisted of Japanese female performers dressed as the Beatles in pale suits.)

Nigo disrupted this wardrobe with traditional Japanese dresses.

A loose beige jacket with British tailoring was conceived in a crossover kimono style.

The preppy style that had been jarring at Nigo’s last two shows was more thoughtful, like the multicolored knitted Boy Scout scarf, but still felt a little overt.

The utilitarian details contrasted beautifully with the eye-popping colors that define American workwear.


The three high-rise towers in the middle of the runway were constructed from compressed abandoned clothes and were meant to “reflect our own ridiculous destruction of this planet,” said the wizarding house Marine Sale. said. It targeted the fast fashion and eco-waste produced by the fashion industry, which consistently lists her as one of the world’s most polluting.

The Maison, which celebrates its inclusivity and openness to change mindsets, said it opened its show to the public and allowed free admission for more than half of its guests, but how this will change eco habits will soon be seen. I didn’t understand.

Still, Marine Serre brilliantly turned the mirror up on the fashion industry, and themselves, with a thought-provoking autumn collection set in the Parisian suburb of La Villette.

Earth-friendly cotton tote bags say they need to be used 20,000 times to offset the overall impact of production. That’s about 54 years of daily use. Marine Serre has developed a series of high-fashion tote bags for autumn. Cream, white, beige and ready to throw away.

Beyond the pure eco-activities, there were some trendy designs from the Paris Fashion Week star who are rapidly gaining popularity since winning the ANDAM Fashion Award in 2020.

Moiré made from recycled fishing line and nets is softer than usual, and is close to the silhouette.

Elsewhere, extra fabrics commonly found in high-end French homes, such as tapestries and jacquards, were used to create a sexy, skin-tight look with geometric lines that tease the body.

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