Luke Edward Hall’s Chateau Orlando Brand Debuts at Pitti Uomo – WWD


milan — New collections, theatrical installations, limited-edition items dedicated to Florence and even an exclusive zine — British artist and designer Luke Edward Hall goes all out to mark the brand’s debut at Pitti Uomo increase.

Launched between London and Milan last year and backed by Wemanage Group, Château Orlando will land at the men’s trade show with its fifth collection entitled ‘Storm Prince of the Old Cornish’.

Synchronized with the fantasy world of Hall’s references defined by an eclectic mix of ancient and contemporary art, folklore and mythology, flowers, books, travel and vintage clothing, the genderless line-up is a blend of color, pattern and playfulness. Filled with sensations.

For autumn 2023, Hall took particular inspiration from a recent trip to the wild coast of West Cornwall, England. “I spent some time alone in a cottage in Ramona Cove, which sits on the edge of a lush valley watered by a creek that empties into the sea. Here I immerse myself in old Cornish folklore. A mama and a mermaid and a ghostly galleon,” he said.

In particular, he was fascinated by the local tales of Sea Bukka, an ancient sea spirit who was once a prince. Legend has it that he was cursed by a witch to become a sea spirit. In his new form, he aids local fishermen by driving fish into nets and crabs into pots, but can also summon terrifying storms. This is the name of the collection.

Storytelling is a central component of Hall’s creative approach in art, interiors and product design, and his fashion ventures are no exception. He likes to “make yourself think of the stories that form the basis of each collection,” an attitude that has been in his brand’s DNA since the knitwear pilot collection released in February 2022. I have confirmed that there is. On a bright spring afternoon, he wandered into a lost garden within the medieval walls, fell under its spell, and settled among ancient trees and crenellations.

The artist’s vivid imagination runs through every aspect of Château Orlando, with a garden-inspired theatrical installation at the Sala delle Nazioni booth at Fortezza da Basso.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

Courtesy of Chateau Orlando

In more practical terms, the Fall 2023 collection marks an expansion of Hall’s ready-to-wear lexicon. No, but Hall is slowly adding other categories, from jackets to bags.

“We have a shirt and a T-shirt, but we also have Chateau Orlando’s first trousers, a relaxed fit made of multicolored corduroy and slightly flared,” he teases. rice field. These styles turned out to be the most difficult part of creating the collection. In terms of “getting the fit right,” he wanted them to be “a staple piece with a classic fit but with a playful edge.”

Corduroy is also used for jackets and vests. “We embroider corduroy pieces and do a lot of experimentation with my drawings and special stitch details,” Hall said. All motifs featured on the products, whether embroidered or not, are based on his original drawings, ranging from animals and mythical creatures to floral patterns.

In addition to presenting new collections, Pitti Uomo will sell items from the current line as well as limited-edition pieces developed for the occasion and inspired by Florence. Hall had the idea of ​​relying on this format rather than the classic lookbook to further perpetuate his storytelling, so a copy of the special zine is available at the booth.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

Courtesy of Chateau Orlando

Hall, who has done a number of high-profile collaborations with famous fashion and interior brands such as Burberry, Liberty, Ginori 1735, Svenske Tenn, and Rubelli, has long been known for his creative approach at Château Orlando, as all input begins with him. I emphasized that it is different from the work of “I love collaborating with brands, but there is something very appealing about having full creative control, from the product itself to the photography, styling, and copywriting,” he said.

“The idea of ​​making new avenues available, avenues where I put a lot of my creative ideas into, avenues I couldn’t open myself,” he said, eventually embarking on a project with strategy consulting firm Wemanage. convinced me. .

“The team is based in Milan, and in fact we had already worked together on a project for Le Sirenuse, a hotel in Positano, Italy. It felt like a great opportunity because I could fully support it,” Hall recalled of the beginnings of Chateau Orlando.

The ultimate goal is to blur the lines between fashion and interiors, creating a brand that can be filled with the distinctive hallmarks of color, optimism and romance that have influenced Hall’s work since he launched his studio in 2015. was to do

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

Courtesy of Chateau Orlando

“We are technically a menswear brand, but I love the idea of ​​clothing for everyone. I’m not so keen on the word ‘style’, but it’s really an approach to life, paying as much attention to how you dress as you do decorating, cooking, or gardening…not just aesthetics…it’s life. It’s about…to the fullest extent…in the most vivid way possible,” he said. “When I do research or design, I try to inject joy into my work, because the process itself fills me with joy.”

To properly arouse such enthusiasm and encapsulate all his ideas, Hall spent months pondering what to call the brand. I came across a brand with a strange name.I wanted to think of something that would intrigue me.I liked the idea of ​​a fictional place, but a place that changes shape, moves, travels through time.Chateau Orlando could be a crumbling old hotel on the French Riviera, or it could be a nightclub in West Hollywood, and it’s up to the customer as much as I am,” he said.

It’s no coincidence that Virginia Woolf’s Orlando is one of his favorite books. “This is a fantastical, glamorous novel about shape change and gender fluidity, set against the backdrop of different historical eras. These are key themes that we are really excited to explore with the brand.” ‘ said Hall.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

A look from the Chateau Orlando Fall 2023 collection.

Courtesy of Chateau Orlando

Prices for Chateau Orlando designs manufactured in the Veneto region of Italy range from €113 to €530. In addition to e-commerce, the brand is available at Le Bon Marché in Paris and BoonTheShop in Seoul. Starting with his Spring 2023 collection hitting stores in mid-February, the brand will also be available at 10 Corso Como and Biffi in Milan.





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