Lydia Tár Takes to the Fashion Podium in The Row, Jil Sander, Lemaire – WWD

London – Todd Field’s third feature film, Tár, isn’t about fashion.

Lydia Tarr, the main character played by Cate Blanchett, is the first female principal conductor of the Berliner Philharmoniker and is at the peak of her career as an EGOT winner. Early in the film, she is getting a suit fitting in the atelier of German tailor Egon Braunstätter, setting the tone for Blanchett’s intelligent and handsome character.

“I wanted to create costumes that no one would see. I just wanted to support the wardrobe, the feelings and the emotions that were written in the script,” costume designer Bina Daigeller told WWD. She said she was surprised that she walked away from the movie thinking about Blanchett’s monochrome uniform.

Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tarr.

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Daigeller took her cues for the costumes from the script, which contained precise descriptions.

“I went into the store with shoppers on instinct and put together what I thought felt right,” says Daigeller, who designed three suits for Blanchett that were worn separately rather than as a full ensemble. Added.

Blanchett’s character is that of a politician who is never seen in uniform. Wearing a vintage Rolex inside and a long back with a high waist, her trouser selection, bespoke pieces, Doris Her Van Her Notten and Studio Her Nicholson pieces are her armor.

In every scene she stands tall with a pole-like posture, which Daigeller described as “important” to the conductor.

(Left to right) Sophie Cower as Olga Metkina and Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tarr. Credit: Florian Hoffmeister / Focus Features

Sophie Kauer as Olga Metkina and Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tarr.

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“She has already lived in Berlin for many years, so her inspiration is this intelligent, gray city Berlin look with an American twist in a baseball cap. Empowering, but also very comfortable to act in.She’s not someone who takes an hour to get up and look good on herself, but she holds a lot of power through her outfit.Dai Geller sought to create a uniform that expressed Blanchett’s outer image, dominated by German sensibility, street graffiti, and gloomy skies, while at the same time capturing the inner essence of American comfort.

Blanchett wears masculine monotone shoes — loafers and socksless sneakers, a nuanced Daigeller set.

Daigeller’s intelligent dressing includes Phoebe Philo’s Celine era and hints of German designer Jil Sander. Her mood board wasn’t exclusive to Muse, revealing she exchanged a few texts with Blanchett during the weeks of preparation. Many people were watching on the street. ”

Cate Blanchett stars as Lydia Tarr in Todd Field's TÁR, a Focus Features release.Credit: Courtesy of Focus Features

Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tarr.

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Blanchett’s curated wardrobe in the film also includes a beautiful black cashmere coat from The Row and Jil Sander shirts. “We are not fashion designers. We take all the information we have and create it for the director and the actors. Adapting to your surroundings, says Daigeller.

The German costume designer rose to fame after working on Pedro Almodovar’s colorful sets creating wardrobes for 1999’s All About My Mother and 2006’s Volver. She has starred in ‘Manifesto’ and ‘Mrs. America’ and has prime time in her designs for costumes. rice field.

Daigeller has just wrapped up another project with Disney about Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. The project, set to be released in the fall, focuses on the rise of the designer’s fashion and the period from his 1930s to the end of his career in Paris.

The series is supported by Balenciaga, giving Daigeller full access to archives and previous museum exhibits.

“Especially when trying to recreate pieces such as the envelope dress, the shapes are very complex and interesting,” said Daigeller, whose team replicated all the pieces.

I worked out the concept in February last year, started shooting in May, and finished in October last year.

Daigeler is negotiating another mission she has in her heart. “I’m starting to work with a very interesting director soon, and it has a lot to do with costume making,” she hinted.

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