Milan — Francesco Risso is preparing to unveil Marni’s fall 2023 collection in Tokyo, the Italian brand’s creative director Francesco Risso said in an exclusive interview.
This confirms the WWD report for October.
The show will take place on February 1st at 8pm local time.
“A year ago, I decided to put on a series of traveling shows with my team and crew of musicians to bring energy to different cities and give back to our friends and communities around the world. is not a recurring show,” he stressed.
Risso emphasized that the goal is to be “at the epicenter of the community, not in a remote or isolated place.” The show is expected to accommodate approximately 2,500 guests.
Indeed, Japan has historically been one of Marni’s most important markets. In a joint interview with Risso, Chief Executive Barbara Calò said that his Marni in 2022 is expected to see a 30% increase in sales in Japan compared to 2021, and the past few days. said the data show that it is performing better than expected.
Japan accounts for 23% of total sales, executives said.
Marni has a 31% increase in global sales in 2022 compared to 2021, but Caro declined to provide global sales figures ahead of the official announcement at the end of the fiscal year. This is scheduled for the first quarter of 2023.
Parent company OTB has not analyzed revenue by brand, but market sources predict Marni’s total sales in 2021 to be over €220 million.
Caro said the brand’s global growth was due to its strong performance in all categories, which it achieved in a “healthy way.”
“I like the balance. I don’t have to worry about relying on one bag,” Risso said with a smile.
In 2000, Maruni’s Japan branch opened, and now there are 28 sales offices in Japan. 2 independent stores, 23 shop-in-shops and 3 outlets.
Following the first unit in Omotesando, which opened in 2019, a second flagship store will open in Tokyo within the next two years, Calò continued. The plan is to roll out Risso’s new store concept on Via Montenapoleone in Milan, which was first unveiled at Salone del Mobile in June, highlighting the location as a creative hub and the brand’s link to art. doing.
Maruni is sold in department stores ranging from Isetan to Takashimaya, and is located on high-end floors. Caro emphasized that the space in these stores has been expanded to give more recognition to all Marni categories.
Business is certainly a consideration, but Risso also emphasized the strong influence that a country and its culture have on his design sensibilities.
“I was finally able to go back to Japan a month ago, and it was another very enjoyable and enlightening trip,” he said. said Risso, who was traveling in to meet people I have strong ties with Japan. “I’m in love with the architecture of 1960s Tokyo,” he said.
Risso held Marni’s first show in New York in September, and during New York Fashion Week said the goal of the show in Tokyo was “to celebrate the place like we did in New York. I don’t want to sever ties with.”
New York was the first leg of a series of traveling shows. Risso said he is planning four shows, but does not yet know the cities where the next two shows will be staged. We aim to welcometh anniversary.
Marni’s New York show was held under the Jorahlemon Tunnel in Brooklyn. high wattage front rowFeaturing Madonna, Kendall Jenner, Doja Cat and James Harden, the score was by Dev Hynes and The String Orchestra of Brooklyn.
Hines will also perform in Tokyo, but Risso will involve collaborators, artists and musicians from Japan “by osmosis, in strong interaction and exchange,” he said. “I have a deep connection with the creativity of the collection,” he said. As he did in New York, Risso asks his home friends to walk the runway with the models as well.
Traveling allows him to “learn about different countries’ cultures, build strong relationships, and understand what people are attracted to. For example, Risso recounted an “amazing, beautiful experience” of walking in pitch darkness at Tamagawa Daishi. “This talks about Japanese culture.”
Risso joined Marni in 2016, presenting the brand’s first collection for the Fall 2017 season and becoming the label’s Artistic director Consuelo Castiglioni. 2015, Rosso’s OTB group completely dominated Marnithree years after acquiring a 61% stake in the Italian fashion company.
With experience at the Prada Group, Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Malo, Risso explores clashing prints, vibrant colors, deconstructed silhouettes, loose volumes and asymmetrical cuts. MarniDesigners also drawn to surrealism often inject youthful, rebellious looks with a niche and grunge vibe.
“We embrace the quality, the discipline, that must be sustained over time, as well as the skill and patience required to create a special object,” said Risso. I think we’ve seen enough cynicism and brutalism. I’m not interested in creating products that cruelize human expression. My mission is to dress people, I don’t work blindfolded. We think about our surroundings, but we also aim to create a world that is comfortable and gives us joy. “