Tod’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection | Vogue

Walter Chiapponi takes Tod’s from its original casual bourgeois Italian lifestyle to a more sophisticated, modern and feminine version. As he sees it, it’s a transition that doesn’t require drastic remodeling, not a gradual update approach. Today, revamping a pedigree brand is like a skilled plastic surgeon’s job. It makes your face look fresher without distorting your best features.

Ahead of fall, he did a brief “tailoring operation” for the trench coat, extending the nature of that classic wardrobe staple into a series of alternate incarnations. “What I find interesting from a design standpoint is giving sportswear and casual wear a kind of couture spirit,” he says, adding, “It gives functional outerwear a twist of sensuality and glamour.” For purpose, he transformed the trench into a cropped, tight-fitting bomber jacket in buttery-soft nappa leather, or into a cinched-waist field jacket, paired with a matching elongated shirt for a onesie effect. .

Elsewhere, the trench has been deconstructed into a robe cloak, given a military flair, and transformed once again into an elegant overcoat. High-quality fabrics such as , rubberized cotton, and soft brushed wool were tactile. The production was “as precise as his evening dress”, pointing to the tailoring techniques that gave each piece its signature, such as stitching that references 70s masculine tailoring and barely visible interlocking seams. Did. A rich palette of orange, crimson and turquoise highlighted the designer’s interpretation of Tod’s more sensual, human and feminine identity and what he represented.

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